This recipe comes from the re-released edition of Diana Henry's acclaimed 2nd cookbook Roast Figs Sugar Snow - Sugar Snow being the unique condition in which the sap of maple trees can be tapped to produce sweets.
Having recently reviewed Diana's latest book Food from Plenty I knew to expect more than just a cookbook and I wasn't wrong. This book is not just about food and ingredients but about the weather, the seasons and about forgotten places - in essence it's about the magic of Autumn and Winter.
The book is a compilation of recipes from some of the worlds more snowy climes - places visited by Diana herself. Georgia, Austria, Switzerland, North Italy, France, North America and Scandinavia are just a few of the destinations represented.
During her travels, Diana realised that these countries were a great hunting ground for the British cook. They all used much the same winter produce as us - root veg, orchard fruits, pork, game and cheese - but with different flavour combinations.
The book is structured around specific ingredients or groups of similar ingredients, so you have a chapter on Cheese 'Ripe and Ready' containing recipes for Tartiflette, Fondue and Georgian Cheese Pies. There are also chapters on nuts, winter veg, game, mushrooms and pork - a meat Diana closely associated with winter months.
This risotto recipe is located in the 'wood and smoke' chapter alongside recipes for smoked haddock tart, smoked duck, smoked eel and one that is on my must make list - tagliatelle with roast pumpkin, sage, ricotta and smoked cheese. The rest of the book focuses on fruits - apples, pears, quinces, plums, damsons, blackberries and sloes, though the last chapter 'sugar snow' is dedicated to the very ingredient that inspired the title of this book - maple syrup. The harvest moon cake (p191) sounds like it could be the perfect sweet treat for Bonfire night.
All in all a lovely wintertime cookbook - a lovely read with even lovelier recipes, especially this risotto!
Smoked Haddock and Leek Risotto
Ingredients: serves 4- 6
50g Butter
4 leeks, sliced
450g Smoked Haddock
1.25 litres Chicken Stock
300g Risotto Rice
75g Parmesan
Method:
Step 1: Melt the butter in a pan and sweat the leeks for 15 minutes. Meanwhile poach the fish is another pan in a little stock, when cooked leave covered so it keeps moist.
Step 2: Add the rice to the leeks and stir to coat the grains then start adding the stock, a ladleful at a time stirring all the time. Use the stock in which the fish was poached for the final few ladlefuls.
Step 3: Gently break the fish into chunks and stir into the risotto along with the Parmesan. Finish with a good grind of black pepper.
6 comments:
My VERY favourite book and that looks fabulous......I LOVE smoked Haddock.
Beth, you don't know how happy you've made me by saying this book has been rereleased! I love Food From Plenty and Diana Henry is fast becoming my very favourite food writer. And that risotto looks fantastic - not that I expected anything less!
The only one of her books I have that I don't think is the best thing EVER is the Gastropub book, but that's because there isn't enough of her in it! If you haven't got Crazy Water, Pickled Lemons as well you really must.
Pickled Lemons sure have taht classic.
MMM risotto looks faboulously creamy:)
Will have to find this book, sounds good. Georgian cuisine is fab. I remember going to the Georgian restaurants in Moscow.
Smoked haddock and leek in risotto would be a bit of a mental challenge for me, as these are not ingredients I associate with the risotto, and I guess I prefer the more authentic Italian flavours, but well done for being creative! :)
I just received this book too. Love it so far, this was the recipe that most appealed to me too. I look forward to trying it soon.
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